Vitamin C is a chemical called Ascorbic Acid and its benefits are countless when it comes to skin care. Some of its benefits include skin brightening, spot or pigmentation reduction, prevention of acne and breakouts, skin barrier strengthening, UV radiation protection, cell regeneration and moisture retention. Its many benefits definitely make Vit C an attractive skin care ingredient for those looking to have better skin, however there is a drawback, one of which is determining the appropriate form of Vit C which is effective, stable and non-irritating at the same time.
To illustrate with a simple comparison between 3 most recognised forms of Vitamin C used in skin care:
Ascorbic Acid (AA) | essentially Vit C in its purest form, protects from UV damage, increases collagen synthesis and reduces skin pigmentation. Most effective form of Vit C, but the ingredient is stable at pH below 3.5 which means it can be harsh or irritating to the skin. (Sometimes known as L-Ascorbic Acid, where L is merely used to indicate the L-shape of molecules).
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) | protects from UV damage but less than AA, increases collagen synthesis but less than MAP, reduces skin pigmentation. Stable at pH 7 hence more suited for sensitive skin.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) | protects from UV damage, increases collagen synthesis, reduces skin pigmentation. Stable at pH 7 hence more suited for sensitive skin.
Mellow Naturals selects MAP as its Vit C ingredient in the Vit C Natural Glow Face Serum, being highly effective but also gentle on even the most sensitive of skin. Read more on MAP.
